Tuesday, 4 August 2009

Gopalgad fort- Anjanvel


The present day Gopalgad fort













The Gopalgad fort at village Anjanvel,Taluka-Guhagar,Dist-Ratnagiri is a sea fort with an approximate area of 7 acres . Most of the fort walls are still in a standing condition.Boulders can be seen adjacent to the exterior of the fort walls.The main fort has been extended by different rulers during different times.

The boulders parallel to the fort walls


















The boulders parallel to the fort walls

















Brief History

The main central fort was constructed by the Bijapur rulers in the 16th century.Chhatrapati Shivaji Maharaj annexed this fort during his Dabhol campaign in 1660.After the death of Shivaji Maharaj in 1680, this fort was annexed by Siddi Khairat Khan in 1699.In 1744 the Maratha warrior Tuloji Angre captured this fort and added it back to the Maratha Kingdom (then Peshwa rule).Further there was a dispute between the Angre's and the Peshwas and this fort went onto the Peshwa's in 1755.With the fall of Maratha empire in 1818, it went to the British.From 1818 till 1947 it was under the control of the British.
During his rule, Siddi Khairat Khan extended the fort walls down upto the sea level.The lower part of these fort walls is called "Padkot".The upper part of the fort walls , adjacent to the main fort is called "Balekot" and it was constructed during the rule of Tuloji Angre.Thus the Gopalgad fort consists of three parts
i.The main central fort
ii. The Balekot (upper extended fort walls)
iii.The Padakot (lower extended fort walls)














The Padkot and the Balekot
















The fort walls


Why the name Gopalgad ?

There is no unanimous opinion about the name "Gopalgad".Some say that it was named as Gopalgad during the rule of Shivaji Maharaj in 1660.Some say that it was named Gopalgad during the rule of Tuloji Angre, since he was a Krishna Bhakt (follower).Still some say that during the rule of the Angre's the killedaar (guardian) of this fort was a person named Gopalrao and hence the name "Gopalgad".















The west side small entrance to the fort



















Main entrance towards the east


The Fort
The fort is guarded by strong fort walls and has total 12 Buruj ( a Buruj is a cylindrical structure in the wall which enables a small troop of soldiers to be stationed).There are two main gates each to the east and the west.The gate to the west is smaller and convenient to enter the fort.As one enters through this gate one can see the guard posts on both sides of this gate.Inside the fort there are thick bushes and mango trees.But as one moves ahead, various structures are visible, the killadaar's residence, three wells, and many small and big foundations.On the fort walls is a

inscription of 1707 which reads in Persian as "If someone constructs a new building and if he dies during its construction, then the building cannot be said to be owned by anyone else.Only God is immortal.Rest all other things are perishable.This fort was constructed on the instructions of the omni-luminous ruler, but he did'nt survive to see the fort"
When there is not much grass on the fort walls, the whole fort can be traversed along the boundary walls.Interesting views of the sea and villages can be seen on this traverse.

Currently there are rumors, that this fort has been sold to some private party.However no definite information is available on this issue.Currently there is not a single notice board of Archaelogical Survey of India .Also there is no notice board of any private party.Readers are requested to share more information on this issue.


The story of Siddnaq
The story of Siddnaq is a classic illustration of the corrosive caste system in the Indian society.It demonstrates , how foreign enemies easily gained access to power by taking advantage of the differences in the Indian society.
During the year 1815-16 this fort was still under the Maratha's and this was the peak period of the caste system in Maharashtra.Siddnaq was a Mahar (untouchable) by caste and he was very thirsty.For a handful of water , he stood before the Anjanvel village-well pleading for water to be offered by someone.In those days a Mahar could not touch the village well, lest it will become impure.Siddnaq was a well-built strong man , but he could not touch the village well and was requesting the people around to offer him some water.
At this instance a message came from the fort that there was an Arabic horse trader on the fort and one of his horses has become uncontrollable.It was announced that anyone who can reign his horse will be rewarded by a honorary turban and a silver bracelet.The so called brave men on the fort did not dare to accept the challenge.The honor of the fort was at stake.Siddnaq could not withstand the humility and accepted the challenge.He offered a Johaar(a typical honorary salute) to the Killedaar and assembled on the horse with a lightening speed.As the beast sensed its rider , it galloped uncontrolled but after an hour Siddnaq returned with the horse fully tamed and its rider , riding it with a proud chest.The Killedaar's honour was saved and as declared Siddanaq was entitled for the award.But once again the caste system came into play.The Killedaar totally neglected Siddnaq. However the Arab trader was watching this incident with a keen interest.He was an agent of the British, Kernel Kennedy.The British had started a campaign to collect strong and brave Mahar men and raise their army to fight against the Maratha's.That night the Arab trader had a talk with Siddnaq and the next day Siddnaq accompanied him to Bombay .Within a short time Siddnaq became a Subhedaar (head) of the Mahar platoon and in 1818 the British gave him the assignment of assisting Kernel Kennedy in his Dabhol-Anjanvel campaign.Kennedy fully utilised the various local informations given by Siddanaq and finally Gopalgad fell to the British.
Now Siddnaq returned to his village Anjanvel as a winner.The defeated Killedaar, other Maratha officers and the villagers were before him.Siddnaq went and spitted in the village well.He yelled at them , " You treated me as a untouchable , did'nt you ? Now drink water from this well ! Our *Chokhoba's ashes are still alive in Pandharpur.If anyone among you is wise enough , one day we will get justice !" The villagers were speechless.
Later Siddnaq lived in Anjanvel village till his old age and died in the same village.His grave stands at a place where the river Vashishti meets the sea below the fort.



An evening behind Gopalgad fort













Foot-note :
*Chokhoba : Chokhoba was a Mahar follower of the Pandharpur deity Shri.Vithaal.His worhip could withstand all odds done to him because of his lower caste.Finally the Pandharpur brahmins had to allow his ashes to be buried in the foot-steps of the Vithaal temple of Pandharpur.

Saturday, 1 August 2009

Shri Laxmi Narayan Temple -Guhagar

From the T-junction (from where we turn right for Guhagar beach) go straight towards Bank of India. Further to Ganesh flour mill you will find Hotel Kautilya.About two minutes further from here you will find a small temple complex to the left-side of the road.


















This area of Guhagar is called "Khalcha Paat" meaning , the lower settlement. Guhagar is classified into three main areas - Khalcha Paat (Lower settlement) , Madhala Paat (middle settlement) and the Varcha Paat(Upper settlement). This Laxmi Narayan mandir is situated in the Khalcha Paat area.

































































This temple complex accommodates three temples - Shri Laxmi Narayan, Shri Ram and Shri Kshetrapal.Maratha sardar Haripant Phadke built this temple. It must be an ancient temple because it is mentioned in the script "Wyadeshwar Mahatmya" written in 1637.





































































The temple has a typical old style construction worth watching.A serene and picturesque water tank lies adjacent to this temple.

It is worth a visit in the evenings.


The off track Guhagar beach

We all visit the normal Guhagar beach - The Guhagar Chowpaty with all shops and the usual Sunday hum-drums.But if you want to visit a serene beach and relax , then you may visit this place in Guhagar


































































How to reach this place ?
Normally we take a right turn from the small T-junction and follow a narrow ally to reach Guhagar chowpaty.Instead of that go straight towards Bank of India (or Ganesh mill).After about 5 min drive you will find an old temple (called Lakshmi Narayan temple ) to your left.You may park your vehicle adjacent to the temple and follow a narrow pathway opposite to this temple.This pathway will lead you through the thick palm groves and finally you will find yourself on a calm picturesque beach.

Sunday, 15 March 2009

Periyar Tiger Reserve, Kerla










Periyar waters in the early morning


Periyar Tiger Reserve (PTR) in Kerla is a heaven for the nature lover.The reserve has a plenty of variety of flora and fauna to admire.It is about 5 hrs drive from Ernakulam (Kochi).Also state transport buses are avilable from Ernakulam.If you are travelling from Tamilnadu, then you may travel to Kumaly.Infact Thekady(Kerla) and Kumaly(Tamilnadu) are almost the same town with only a nominal barrier check-post inbetween them.
Being a famous tourist spot , PTR has a plenty of tourist lodges,tourist homes , hotels and restaurants which will siut for all budgets.The forest department operates a boat ride on the Periyar river .Ticket rates for the boat ride are

The banks if Periyar river


medium.The boat ride lasts for about an hour and tourists have to watch the wildlife onboard.Guide services on this forest department run boat services are almost nil.However private boat rides can be arranged.
Also full day jeep-safaris are available.Rates for this service is quite higher.
Although named as a Tiger reserve, Tiger population is quite less at this place . Onboard the boat , there are hardly any chances to spot a tiger.Generally spotted animals are wild elephants,sambar deers, otters, wild buffaloes, wild boars etc.Commonly spotted birds are Cormorants,Kingfishers, Snake or Darter
birds,Osprey,Pond herons etc.
The way to boat jetty


Other activities :
Visit the wax-museum in Thekady.
Also spice gardens are worth a visit.
Martial arts shows and Kathakali dance shows are available in the evenings.

Important note :
Tourist services in Thekady , focuses on foreign tourists and as such it is a costly place for an average Indian Tourist.Don't forget to make a detailed search and bargain for various tourist services.















The magical fog on the Periyar waters
















Sambar deers
































A wild elephant































Wild Buffaloes grazing far away



















A wild boar
































Otter
































Egret






















Kingfisher

















Darter or Snake bird




























Great Cormorant


















Snake bird



















Nest of a Great Cormorant


















A Kingfisher


















Osprey













































Snake bird



Thursday, 12 June 2008

Tadoba ,4Jun 08

Tadoba is a protected wildlife habitat near Chandrapur,Maharashtra.It lies about 45 km in the north-east direction of Chandrapur town.Earlier it was called as Tadoba wild life sanctuary.But later on its area was increased and Andhari range and Kolsa range were also added to it. Now it is combinedly called as Tadoba-Andhari Tiger project.Currently there are 42 Tigers in this area.We visited Tadoba in the early hours of 4 June 08.That early morning there were light continuous showers and the climate was perfectly pleasant for a forest outing.After hiring a forest guide we started our round at about 7.00am in the morning.Being a cool wet morning , our chances to spot a tiger were quite less , but we were in high spirits to appreciate the flora and fauna of the place.

The first spotted animals were a herd of Chitals in a bush near the lake.Followed by this were a small group of Sambars nearby.A variety of water-birds could be seen near the lake.











As we moved to another area we spotted an Indian sloth bear . It was a adult bear roaming alone in the forest.Monkeys could be seen at various locations through out the forest.Also another common bird in the forest was the Red Wattled Lapwing.










As we were moving along the forest road we spotted a Peacock sitting majestically over a forest
tree-log beside the road.We had very little time to photograph it and the national bird quickly moved into the forest bushes.



On the banks of Tadoba lake we spotted a crocodile with its nostrils held above the water.We spotted a number of birds like Oriental Honey Buzzard, Indian treepie, Little Bee-Eater,White breasted Kingfisher,Black Ibis,Painted stork,Egrets,Indian pond heron, Long legged buzzard and Purple Moorhen.


Driving a vehicle and simultaneously photographing the birds is quite a hectic task.As such we were not able to photograph some of the birds like Quails,Common Hoopoe,Woodpecker,Greater racket tailed drongo, and Asian Paradise fly catcher
Towards the end of our round we spotted a Wild Boar.We could not spot a tiger in this tour.Nevertheless we enjoyed the eco-tour and took lasting memories with us.
Currently the forest canteen near Tadoba lake is closed .Also the resting spot inside the forest is closed .Also the forest department lodges which were quite affordable for tourists (as compared to MTDC resorts) are closed.This is a matter of inconvenience for the tourists.